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How to Clean Granite and Quartz Worktops

Stone and engineered stone worktops are tough, but the wrong cleaner can leave them dull, etched or stained. Here's what's safe on each, and how to deal with the marks that worry people most.

5 min read · Updated November 2026

Illustration of a cleaner wiping a speckled granite worktop in a navy kitchen

Granite, quartz and the rest: what you've got

Granite is natural stone. It's hard and heat-resistant but slightly porous, so it's sealed when installed and needs resealing every year or few years depending on the stone and how it's used. Quartz worktops are engineered: crushed quartz bound with resin. They aren't porous and don't need sealing, but the resin can be damaged by heat and harsh chemicals.

Other popular surfaces include sintered stone and porcelain slabs (very resistant to stains and chemicals), solid surface materials such as acrylic composites, and laminate printed to look like stone. If you're not sure, check the paperwork from the kitchen fitter or ask the landlord.

Everyday cleaning for any stone worktop

The safest daily routine is the simplest: wipe crumbs away, then clean with a microfibre cloth wrung out in warm water with a drop of washing-up liquid. Rinse with a clean damp cloth and buff dry. Drying is what keeps the surface streak-free and stops hard-water spots forming around the sink and kettle.

If you'd like a spray, use one labelled as suitable for stone or quartz. Many general multi-surface sprays are fine on quartz but not on natural stone.

What not to use

Most worktop damage is caused by cleaning, not cooking:

  • Vinegar, lemon juice and acidic limescale removers on granite and marble – they can etch and dull the polish and break down the sealer
  • Bleach and strong alkaline cleaners on quartz – they can discolour the resin
  • Abrasive creams, scouring pads and wire wool on any polished surface
  • Oven cleaner and strong solvent strippers near any worktop
  • Very hot pans directly on quartz – always use a trivet

Removing common stains

Treat stains as early as possible, and test anything new in a hidden corner first.

Oil and grease on granite

Oil darkens granite as it soaks in. Make a thick paste of bicarbonate of soda and water, spread it over the mark about half a centimetre thick, cover with cling film taped at the edges and leave for 24 hours. The paste draws the oil out as it dries. Remove, rinse and repeat if needed.

Tea, coffee and wine

On granite, a poultice of bicarbonate of soda with a little hydrogen peroxide (3%) instead of water is often recommended for organic stains on light stone – test first, as it can lighten some darker stones. On quartz, a cloth with warm soapy water usually lifts these marks; a non-abrasive cleaner made for quartz handles anything left.

Limescale around taps

On granite, use a stone-safe limescale remover rather than vinegar, and scrape gently with a plastic card. On quartz, a mild limescale remover used briefly and rinsed well is generally fine, but check the manufacturer's guidance.

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Is your granite still sealed?

Drip a little water onto the worktop in a few places, including near the sink and hob. If it beads up, the sealer is working. If it darkens the stone within a few minutes, the sealer has worn and the granite will start absorbing stains. Resealing with an impregnating sealer is a DIY job for most people – clean thoroughly, let the stone dry, apply following the product instructions and keep the surface dry for the curing time.

Quartz doesn't need sealing, and applying sealer to it can leave a hazy film.

Disinfecting stone safely

For hygiene after preparing raw meat, wash the area with hot soapy water first, then use a disinfectant labelled safe for stone or quartz. On granite, a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and water is a commonly used stone-safe option. Avoid bleach on quartz and acids on granite. Our guide to cleaning vs disinfecting explains when you actually need to disinfect.

Telling your cleaner about your worktops

If you have a regular cleaner or book a deep clean, tell them what the worktops are made of and leave out the products you'd like used. Most professional cleaners carry stone-safe products, but it's an easy conversation that prevents an expensive mistake. In rented homes, worktop damage such as etching or burns is a common check-out query, so it's worth knowing the difference between dirt, which cleaning fixes, and damage, which it can't.

Common questions

Can I use vinegar on granite worktops?

No. Vinegar is acidic and can etch the polished surface and break down the sealer. Use warm water with washing-up liquid or a stone-safe cleaner instead.

What should you not use on quartz worktops?

Avoid bleach, strong alkaline cleaners, oven cleaner, abrasive creams and scouring pads, and never put hot pans directly on quartz.

How do I get a stain out of a granite worktop?

For oil, use a thick bicarbonate of soda poultice covered with cling film for 24 hours. For organic stains on light stone, bicarbonate with a little hydrogen peroxide can work – test in a hidden spot first.

Do quartz worktops need sealing?

No. Quartz is non-porous and doesn't need sealing. Granite and most natural stones do.

Are antibacterial wipes safe on stone worktops?

Many are, but check the label. Some contain bleach or acids that can harm quartz or granite. Clean with soapy water first and use a stone-safe disinfectant if needed.

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