Daily cleaning
Wipe up spills as they happen, especially around the sink and kettle where water sits. For a daily clean, use a microfibre cloth wrung out in warm water with a drop of washing-up liquid, wiping along the grain. Dry the surface straight away with a clean cloth.
Avoid soaking wood, leaving wet dishcloths on it or letting water pool around the tap. Wood swells and darkens when it absorbs water, and repeated wetting is what causes black marks and cracks near the sink.
Products to avoid
Many general kitchen cleaners are too harsh for oiled wood:
- Bleach and chlorine sprays, which dry out and discolour the wood
- Neat vinegar used often – it can strip the oil finish over time
- Abrasive creams and green scourers, which scratch the surface
- Steam cleaners, which force moisture into the grain
- Spray polishes containing silicone, which stop oil soaking in later
Disinfecting a wooden worktop
Wood is fine for food preparation, but avoid cutting raw meat directly on the worktop – use a separate chopping board. If raw meat juices do get onto the wood, wash the area with hot soapy water, rinse, and then use a disinfectant spray that's labelled safe for wood, or a light mist of diluted white vinegar (one part to four parts water), followed by drying. Re-oil areas you disinfect frequently.
How to oil a wooden worktop
Oil protects wood by soaking into the fibres and repelling water. A new worktop typically needs several coats in its first weeks, then a maintenance coat every three to six months – more often around the sink. If water no longer beads on the surface, it's time.
Step by step
Clean the worktop and let it dry completely – overnight is ideal. If the surface feels rough, rub it lightly with fine sandpaper (around 240 grit) along the grain and remove the dust with a dry cloth.
Apply a thin layer of worktop oil (such as Danish oil or a dedicated hardwax or worktop oil) with a lint-free cloth, working along the grain. Leave it to soak in for 10–20 minutes, then wipe off all the excess with a clean cloth. Leave it to dry for the time stated on the tin before using the worktop – usually several hours.
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Removing marks and stains
Light water rings and dull patches often disappear with a fresh coat of oil. Black marks around the sink and tap are usually water that has reacted with the tannins in oak. Sand the area along the grain with progressively finer paper until the mark fades, then re-oil – several coats on that area to rebuild protection. Oxalic acid wood bleach can lighten deep black stains, but follow the instructions carefully and wear gloves.
Burns from pans and small scratches can usually be sanded out, because solid wood worktops are thick enough to be refinished several times. Deep cracks or loose joints are a job for a joiner or kitchen fitter.
Lacquered wood and veneers
Some wooden worktops are lacquered rather than oiled. These are cleaned with a damp cloth and mild soap, never oiled, and scratched lacquer can't simply be sanded and re-oiled. Thin veneer worktops shouldn't be sanded at all. If you're not sure what finish you have, a drop of water left for a few minutes on an oiled worktop will slowly darken the wood; on lacquer, it just sits there.
Wooden worktops and professional cleaners
When you book a domestic cleaner or a deep clean, tell them the worktops are oiled wood and show them which products to use. Professional cleaners won't usually sand or re-oil worktops, but in an end of tenancy situation a landlord may expect the worktop to be returned clean and dry, with normal wear accepted. Re-oiling the worktop yourself before check-out is often worth an hour of your time.
