How to Clean Wooden Furniture

Most modern dining tables, sideboards and wardrobes have a lacquer or varnish finish – a hard, slightly glossy coating that sits on top of the wood. Antique and traditional pieces are often waxed or French polished. Many Scandinavian-style and solid oak pieces are oiled, with a natural, matt look.

A simple test: put a drop of water on a hidden area. On lacquer it beads and sits on the surface. On oiled or waxed wood it slowly darkens the wood if the finish is thin. French polish is delicate and can turn white with moisture or heat – treat antiques with particular care.

Dust with a dry or very slightly damp microfibre cloth, following the grain. Microfibre picks up dust rather than pushing it around, so you don't need a spray. Dust before it builds up – a thick layer of dust is gritty and can scratch the finish when wiped.

Spray polishes give an instant shine, but many contain silicone or oils that build up into a cloudy, sticky layer that attracts more dust. Used every week for years, they're the main reason furniture looks smeary.

For a sticky dining table or greasy marks on a sideboard, mix a few drops of washing-up liquid into a bowl of warm water. Dip a cloth, wring it out until it's nearly dry, wipe along the grain, then dry immediately with a clean cloth. On lacquered furniture this is safe for regular use. On waxed and oiled pieces, keep it occasional and follow with a little wax or oil.

If furniture looks cloudy or feels tacky, the old polish needs removing. For lacquered pieces, a cloth dampened with a solution of one part white vinegar to four parts water, wrung out well and followed by a dry buff, usually cuts through the residue. Test first. For waxed antiques, a little white spirit on a soft cloth removes old wax – then re-wax lightly. Ventilate the room and follow the safety advice on the bottle.

White rings are moisture trapped in the finish rather than damage to the wood. On lacquer, they often fade by themselves within a day or two. If they don't, lay a cotton tea towel over the mark and pass a warm iron (no steam) over it for a few seconds at a time, checking regularly – the gentle heat drives the moisture out. A hairdryer on a medium setting is a gentler alternative.

Dark rings are different: water has gone through the finish into the wood. These usually need the area sanded and refinished by a furniture restorer. Heat marks from hot plates are similar to white rings and can respond to the same treatments if caught early.

Fine scratches can be disguised with a wax filler stick or furniture repair pen in a matching shade. On oiled furniture, light scratches often blend in after a fresh coat of oil applied with fine wire wool along the grain (oiled wood only – never on lacquer). Deep gouges, missing veneer and lifting edges are repairs for a professional.

Oiled furniture needs re-oiling every six to twelve months, more often on tables used every day. Clean it, let it dry, wipe on a thin coat of the oil the manufacturer recommends, leave it for 15 minutes and wipe off all the excess. Waxed furniture benefits from a thin coat of paste wax once or twice a year, buffed to a soft sheen.

Keep wooden furniture away from radiators and direct sunlight where you can – heat dries and cracks it, and sunlight fades it unevenly.

A regular cleaner will dust and wipe wooden furniture each visit. Tell them about any antiques, French polished pieces or oiled tables so they know which cloths and products to use – and which to avoid. Polishing, waxing and repairs are generally outside a standard clean.