How to Clean Marble Safely

Marble is a calcium-based stone. Acids react with it chemically and dissolve the surface, leaving dull patches called etch marks. That includes vinegar, lemon juice, wine, tomato sauce, many bathroom limescale removers and some multi-surface sprays. Marble is also porous, so oils and coloured liquids can soak in and stain if the stone isn't sealed.

Etching and staining look similar but aren't the same. A stain is a darker (or coloured) mark where something has soaked in. An etch is a dull, lighter patch where the polish has been eaten away; it often feels slightly rough.

Wipe marble with a soft microfibre cloth dampened in warm water with a few drops of pH-neutral washing-up liquid or a cleaner made for marble. Rinse with a clean damp cloth and dry. On floors, use a damp (not wet) flat mop with a stone-safe floor cleaner and dry any puddles.

Use coasters, trays and chopping boards on marble surfaces, and wipe up spills immediately – especially wine, fruit juice, coffee, oil and anything acidic.

These are the most common causes of marble damage:

A poultice draws stains out of the stone. For oil-based stains (cooking oil, butter, cosmetics), mix bicarbonate of soda with water to the consistency of peanut butter. For organic stains on light marble (coffee, tea, wine), mix it with a little 3% hydrogen peroxide instead – test first, as peroxide can lighten dark stones.

Spread the paste over the stain about half a centimetre thick, cover with cling film, tape the edges and make a few small holes. Leave it for 24–48 hours while it dries, then remove, rinse and dry. Repeat if the stain has faded but not gone. Rust stains and very old stains may need a specialist.

Light etching on polished marble can sometimes be improved with a marble polishing powder or etch remover, rubbed in with a damp cloth as directed. Deeper etching and dullness over a large area needs professional honing and polishing, where a stone specialist grinds away the damaged surface and re-polishes it. On honed (matt) marble, etching is much less visible.

Sealer doesn't stop etching, but it slows down staining. To check whether your marble needs sealing, drip some water on it and wait 10–15 minutes. If it darkens, it's absorbing water and should be resealed with an impregnating sealer for natural stone. Clean the surface thoroughly first and let it dry completely. Kitchen worktops and vanity tops usually need resealing more often than floors or fireplace surrounds.

Marble tiles and vanity tops in bathrooms are a challenge, because limescale removers can't be used. Squeegee and dry marble shower walls after use to stop limescale forming, use a pH-neutral stone cleaner weekly, and remove soap scum with a stone-safe soap film remover. Grout between marble tiles should be cleaned with stone-safe products only – standard grout cleaners are often acidic.

Professional cleaners usually ask about stone surfaces, but it's worth mentioning marble when you book a regular clean or deep clean. A cleaner who uses a limescale spray on a marble vanity in good faith can cause damage that takes a specialist to fix. Leaving out the stone cleaner you want used is the simplest safeguard.